Water sensitive urban design (WSUD) encompasses all aspects of integrated urban water cycle management, including water supply, sewerage and stormwater. Water Sensitive Urban Design is about planning and design the way of water, the related environmental resources and the whole water infrastructure.
The considerations of water cycle management is important for urban development that contributes to an ecologically city. Water cycle management covers; drinking water, stormwater run-off, waterway health, sewerage treatment and re-cycling. Water Sensitive Urban Design is about and how water can be integrated of water cycle management into urban planning and design.
The principles of Water Sensitive Urban Design are; to protect and enhance natural water systems within urban developments. Integrate stormwater treatment into landscape by using the stormwater into the landscape with incorporate multiple use corridors that will maximise the visual and recreational amenity of developments. At the same time, the water is integrated into the landscape it has to have certain water quality. The Water Sensitive Urban Design have to protect the water quality - improve the quality of water draining from urban development's into receiving environment. Trough filtration and retention, the water draining from urban design developments can be treated to remove pollutants close to their source. This approach reduces the effect that polluted water can have upon the environment and protects the natural waterways.
The Water Sensitive Urban Design also has to reduce peak flows from urban development by local detention measures and minimising impervious areas. Local detention and retention enables effective land use for flood mitigation by utilising numerous storage points in contrast to the current practice of utilisation of large retarding basins. This approach reduces the infrastructure required downstream to effectively drain urban developments during rainfall.
The reduction of downstream drainage infrastructure due to reduced peak flows and runoff minimises the development costs for drainage, meanwhile enhancing natural features such as rivers and lakes that add value to the properties of the area.
Water Restriction in Maldon & Victoria
Melbourne is now on stage 2 water restrictions. The water restrictions are rules that private people and industry have to keep. Melbourne households will stay on stage 2 until March 2011. On stage 2 Melbournians are able to:
Use a hose fitted a trigger nozzle, watering can or bucket to water gardens at any time.
Wash cars at home with either a bucket or a high pressure, water saving device
water gardens with a manual watering system between 6-8am and 8-10pm on alternate days (If you are aged over 70 you can water between 8-10am in the morning)
water gardens with an automatic watering system between midnight and 4am on alternate days
fill spas and smaller pools, such as children's inflatable play pools.
Even and no-numbered houses can water on even dates of the month, odd numbered houses can water on odd dates of the month, and everyone can water on the 31st.
What stage two means
Watering hours - manual watering: Manual watering systems can be used to water plants as required on specified days between 6 - 8 am and 8 - 10 pm.
Watering Hours - automatic watering: Automatic watering systems can be used to water plants as required on specified watering days between midnight - 4 am.
Watering hours - hand watering: Hand watering using a watering can, bucket or trigger nozzle can be done as needed - anytime.
Watering days: Only apply when using manual and automatic watering systems
Carwashing: Cars can now be washed at home with drinking water using a high pressure water cleaning device or a bucket filled directly from a tap. A hand held hose fitted with a trigger nozzle may not be used. It's also allowed to wash the car by using a water efficient commercial or mobile car wash. Only commercial or mobile car washes which meet water efficient requirements - meaning they use 70 litres of drinking water or less per vehicle.
Swimming pools: An existing pool or spa of less than 2,000 litres can be filled using a trigger nozzle hose, watering can or bucket. An existing pool or spa with a capacity of 2,000 litres or more must not be filled except in accordance with a Water Conservation Plan prepared by the owner and approved by the local water business. An existing pool or spa can be topped up by means of a handheld hose fitted with a trigger nozzle, or a watering can or bucket, filled either by a handheld hose fitted with a trigger nozzle, or directly from a tap. A new pool or spa of up to 2,000 litres may be filled with drinking water. However, a new pool or spa of greater than 2,000 litres must not be filled for the first time except in accordance with a Water Conservation Plan
Personal target: 155 litres per person per day.
Restrictions do not apply to rainwater collected in a storage tank, provided it is not supplemented with drinking water supply. Greywater and rainwater can be used at any time outdoors.
Gardens can now be hand watered - with a watering can, bucket or hose fitted with a trigger nozzle - at any time.
Manual watering systems can be used to water plants as required on specified watering days between 6 - 8 am and/or 8 - 10pm.
Automatic watering systems can be used on specified watering days between midnight and 4am.
If someone in your household is 70 years or over you can use a manual watering system between 8 - 10am instead of 6 - 8am, and still between 8 - 10pm on your specified watering days.
Lawns must not be watered at any time with drinking water, unless you have a warm season grass exemption.
Melbourne Water Supply
Drinking water is defined as water primarily for human consumption either directly, as supplied from the tap, or indirectly, in beverages, ice or foods prepared with water. Drinking water is sometimes called potable water - is water that is safe for human to drink.
A way to get drinking water is from water board. This is safest way to get water. It isn't necessary to boil or clean the water by sending through filters system.
Melbourne's water supply system is based on the principle that it is better to start with the highest quality source water than having to treat it to reach required standards.
Having water as the only water supply from water boards, will give a higher water bill and a family would be more dependent on the water supply from waters board.
An extensive system of pipes and aqueducts distributes water from Melbourne's water storage reservoirs to the retail water companies and their customers.
Thousands of kilometers of pipes carry the water in a network. These pipes are largely underground.
Melbourne Water is responsible for providing waterway management, regional drainage and floodplain services to about 1.7 million property owners within the Port Phillip and Westernport region
First the water has to be collected. A water catchment is an area of land which has been set aside to collect rainwater. Most of Melbourne's water is collected in protected catchment areas. After the water has been collected the water will be storage in reservoirs. Most of this water does not need a lot of treatment before it is piped to citizens. Some water comes from reservoirs which collect water from an open catchment. These catchment areas are downstream from towns and farms, which increase the chances of water pollution. Therefore this water is fully treated.
Water treatment involves a number of processes: coagulation; clarification; filtration; disinfection; and fluoridation.
After treatment the water has to be distributed. This distribution will be in underground pipes which will carry the water all around Melbourne. From the major reservoir storages, water flows by gravity (or is pumped) through large pipes (distribution mains) to service reservoirs. These reservoirs provide short-term storage (1-2 days) to ensure a constant water supply during peak demand periods. From the service reservoirs, water flows by gravity through a smaller pipe system to the metropolitan retail water businesses, which then supply the water to homes, schools and businesses.
Advantages
Clean water
Stable water supply
"unlimited" water
Disadvantages
Dependent on water board delivery
Expensive
Not self-sufficient
Added Chemicals
Price
40.000 $ for establishment from main service to allotment. 0,7 $ per litre water.
Recommendation
There are no services on the site and the nearest is 100 meters away. If the Jones family should be supplied with water from the water board, they have to pay for service from the allotment to the service point. The price for installation of service is approximately 40.000 $ for 100 meters. The Jones family also have to pay for the water they use. $1.980 per unit. 1 unit = 100 cubic feet or 623 gallons or 2,832 litres.
This solution would be a safe choice, but it would not be the most sustainable solution.
Groundwater
Groundwater extracted from bores can be an important water source for domestic use. Many urban areas occur over a Suitable aquifer. Indeed, the use of groundwater in Australia for outdoor purposes is commonplace.
Groundwater quality varies from place to place, and may be unsuitable for domestic purposes. For example, groundwater can be saline or be contaminated by human activity. Where groundwater quality is unsuitable, artificial recharge of storm water into the aquifer can often be used to produce suitable water supplies. This process is known as aquifer storage and recovery.
A groundwater bore comprises a hole drilled into the ground to a depth exceeding the water table (the uppermost level of strata that is saturated by groundwater). Water-bearing strata beneath this level (such as rock or sand) are termed an aquifer. The depth of the water table and aquifers varies considerably from place to place in response to geological and climatic conditions, and can also vary seasonally. A pump system is required to extract groundwater from the aquifer. Bores are installed by specialist drilling contractors. Groundwater is extracted from an aquifer using a submerged pump placed in the bore. It is subsequently passed through a filter to remove sediments or contaminants. The extracted water is used for outdoor uses and toilet flushing.
There are three essential criteria that must be satisfied by an aquifer storage and recovery scheme.
• Pre-treatment: rainwater must be suitably treated prior to aquifer injection in order to prevent groundwater contamination. Domestic roof water is generally of acceptable quality provided that it is passed through a sand-gravel filter.
• Water balance: aquifer extraction and recharge must be balanced on an annual basis. This will ensure that long-term ground water levels are maintained.
• Suitability for use: the quality of water extracted from the aquifer must be suitable for the proposed use.
Aquifer storage and recovery will generally only be appropriate for larger housing developments. However, where installed, it can produce significant water management benefits including:
• reduced groundwater salinity
• Flood mitigation
• reduced mains water demand and costs
• Restoration of groundwater levels
• improved storm water quality.
When they start to pump up the groundwater, there are five beneficial use categories of groundwater, based on salinity and other factors.
The best groundwater (less than 1,000 mg)/L TDS) - suitable for drinking and for most domestic, industrial and irrigation purposes.
1,000 to 3,000 mg/L TDS - may be used for some domestic and industrial purposes or for irrigating salt tolerant crops.
3,000 to 7,000 mg/L TDS - suitable only for stock watering.
Greater than 7,000 mg/L TDS - suitable only for sheep.
Figur 0Victorian Groundwater beneficial use map
Greater than 14,000 mg/L TDS - too saline for any use.
The water in Maldon is between two catogories, because it has between 3500- 13000 mg/L TDS.
By pumping up the groundwater would make the Jones family more self-sufficient and independent on the main water supply and rainwater.
Price
On average, a ground water system costs about $2,500 per ton of capacity, or roughly $7,500 for a 3-ton unit (a typical residential size). This including installation. The Jones family need a big tank approximately 100.000 litres or more, so they can be self-sufficient. Typical annual energy savings range from 30% to 60%.
Recommendation
Pumping up water from the ground would definitely be feasible. If we look at a map of groundwater, we can see that there is groundwater beneath the site. The Jones family just had to have a bore licensed driller out to check the salinity in the water and how deep the aquifer is under the surface and the condition of the site. If it's a site lying on "rocks", it would not be the best solution to bore.
Because of the high salinity the Jones family would not be able to have a groundwater system, and CED can not recommend installing groundwater system. If the salinity was a bit lower they could use it in the greywatersystem. Salinity makes unfortunately the water not useful for garden watering.
The system isn't expense, so if the water has been on a certain standard, this would maybe have been one of the best solutions.
Private Water Delivery
If isn't possible to get water from the water board, because they don't have any water supply in the area or you live out far away from everything, a possibility is to get the water delivered. By getting water delivered a family most have a big water tank to storage. The size of the tank depends on how often a family wants to have delivered water and quantity they use.
It is easy to call a company who deliver water with water trucks to your home. Water from such a company has been fully tested and cleared for a variety of commercial, industrial and domestic purposes. Some companies can deliver up to 150.000 liters per day. The target is 155 liters per person a day and with a tank on 150.000 liters and a family on 4 it gives 620 liters a day. This will allow a family to have water in approximately 240 days before the tank is empty. This may also be a more expensive way to have water supply and the family has to be aware of using the water.
If a water tank is the only water supply for a residential it will become very depended on delivering.
At the same time, a family would not have use water from a delivery company. They will properly also have water tank to collect rainwater.
Advantages
Clean water
Safe water
Stable delivery
Disadvantages
Not self-sufficient
Dependent on delivering
Limited amount of water
Price
The price for private delivery is 0.19 $ per litre plus transportation. When the Jones family shall have their water tank filled on 150.000 litres they must pay 28.500 $.
Recommendation
This solution is cheaper than main water system. It's almost half price.
The Jones family have to think on how and when they use the water, because they only have what is in the tank. They have a limit amount of water. This may not be the most sustainable solution cause of the transportation.
Rainwater Tanks
Traditionally, rainwater tanks have been a source of domestic water supply for isolated properties and small communities in the absence of potable town water supplies. However, when applied in the urban context, rainwater tanks can provide an opportunity to significantly reduce demand on potable (drinking water) supplies in certain areas of use.
Historically storm water (or rainwater) has been viewed as a nuisance or hazard in terms of flood management and drainage conveyance. An alternative to this thinking is to view storm water as a "resource" to be harvested and used beneficially for broader community benefits.
Opportunities for rainwater collection and use vary according to where you live. Urban households already have a connection to a centralised, or reticulated, water supply system, whereas rural households typically have to source their water on their property. In urban areas water bills will be lowered or eliminated by installing a rainwater tank.
Advantages
Rainwater can aid self-sufficiency, providing a back-up supply in case of water restrictions. On rural properties, rainwater can provide a better quality potable supply than river, bore or dam water. Rainwater tanks can also provide cost-effective on-site detention of stormwater. Depending on tank size and climate, reticulated water use can be reduced by 50 per cent in urban areas. This can help:
Reduce the need for new dam construction.
Protect remaining environmental flows in rivers.
Reduce infrastructure operating costs.
Increased Land Value
Modular
Strong Structural Design
Low Maintenance
Protects Property
Tank water rebates are currently available from all state and territory governments, with the exception of Victoria which offers plumbing rebates for connecting rain tanks to the house, the rebates are;
Rainwater Tanks, 2000 - 3999 liters capacity, connected to toilet and/or laundry - $500 rebate
Rainwater Tanks, 4000+ liters capacity, connected to toilet or laundry - $900 Rebate
Rainwater Tank 4000+ liters capacity, connected to toilet and laundry - $1000 Rebate
Some rebates are also available from local councils. The rebate amount depends on how the tank is connected to the house and often there are minimum capacity requirements. Contact the relevant government agency to find out more.
Disadvantages
In areas with reticulated water supply the main disadvantage of installing a rainwater tank is the financial cost. This is particularly the case if the water supplier charges a fixed charge for the centralized supply service, regardless of whether or not you use it.
A rainwater tank will cost (in 2007) a minimum of $500 for a small 400L tank to around $8000 for a 100,000L tank. Costs will vary considerably depending on the tank material, shape and installation and delivery requirements. Regular maintenance, such as checking and cleaning gutters, is required. Health risks can arise if maintenance is not carried out. Reliability, ie. Small tanks may not have sufficient water available in mid-summer.
The water tanks would normally be installed behind the house or near the house. The best storage for a water tank would be in the shadow, and then would the evaporation be less than in the sun. If the tank has to be storage in the shadow it would be under some kind of roof or in the shadows for the threes on the site. If the tank is storage near by the threes the Jones family have sure that the tank is covered, so dust, leafs etc. can come into the water tank.
Health and Safety
Cover and thoroughly screen tanks to exclude mosquitoes, birds and animals, especially in areas where mosquito-borne disease is an issue.
Design tanks to overflow to gardens, infiltration trenches or the storm water system.
Desludge the tank periodically with a tap installed at its base.
If rainwater and mains supply are both used then mains water must be isolated from the rainwater system by a valve mechanism or tap. Exact specifications vary across Australia.
Protect water in tanks from sunlight, which can stimulate algal growth. Plastic tanks may allow light to penetrate so they should be kept out of the sun or painted.
Chemical disinfection or filtration of the rainwater is not necessary if the only use your rainwater for non-potable uses.
Regular maintenance is very important to ensure that the rainwater will be safe for all requirements around the home, particularly drinking. One contamination risk comes from animals or birds leaving droppings on the roof and gutters or accidentally entering the tank and becoming trapped. Another potential contaminant is the roofing and roof flashing materials, for example lead flashing on older roofs. First flush devices can also be used to reduce the contaminants by preventing the initial roof-cleaning wash of water from entering the tank. It is also important to regularly check the first-flush device and to ensure the catchment area is clean.
The most common tank materials include plastic (polyethylene), concrete, and galvanized steel.
Galvanized steel is the most common type of tank material in Australia. It is the least expensive, but its lifespan is limited by corrosion.
Concrete tanks are strong and long lasting. They are typically constructed on-site and can therefore be designed to meet specific site and householder requirements.
Plastic tanks are available in a range of sizes and colors. They are tough and durable and relatively lightweight.
In recent years a range of innovative systems have been developed, specifically aimed at providing adequate rainwater storage capacity in situations where space is constrained. These include storage walls, bladders and modular systems.
Storage walls are modular slim line tanks (typically plastic) that fit together and double as a wall system.
Bladders are sealed, flexible sacs that are particularly suitable for tight sub-floor spaces (in areas with as little as 750mm height clearance). Their installation is a little more technically involved than a standard tank, but they can be a especially good for renovations where space is limited.
Modular underground tanks are also available. Some systems are capable of capturing rainwater and storm water, the latter via infiltration through the lawn or garden. The tanks are covered by a material that filters the storm water as it enters.
As a resource, storm water can be collected in rainwater tanks and accessed specifically for toilet flushing, laundry, garden watering, car washing and the like; potentially reducing potable use by up to 70% in an average household. Similarly rainwater tanks can assist in reducing localized flooding or storm water runoff volumes during rainfall events, through temporary storage and delayed release or reuse. (Water, 2010)
Recommendation
When we look at the water tank, which will be preferred for the Jones family. Galvanized is cheap but its lifetime isn't as long as plastic and concrete. By choosing concrete tanks the Jones family would be able to integrate the tank as a part of the design outside. The shape of the tank can be all kind of shapes. Concrete is easy to recycle and have a longevity, it isn't that vulnerable to environment.
Plastic tanks are cheap, available in many sizes and easy to recycle. The lifetime of plastic would be long as well, but it would be more exposed to the environment.
The recommendation for the Jones family would be to have a water tank in concrete.
Rainwater Systems
Rainwater that is captured and stored correctly is a safe, economical and sustainable source of quality water. Safety measures can be applied to the manner in which rainwater is captured, stored and dispensed. The mains water is typically stored in dams, treated with chemicals such as chlorine to kill off bacteria and make it safe, and then pumped through a network of pipes throughout the cities. It makes sense to catch the rain that falls for free without chemicals.
Significant economic, social and environmental benefits can be achieved by using rainwater. Some of the benefits:
Rainwater reduces the significant damage to our creeks, water habitats and organisms caused by stormwater runoff. To collect water to help fight bushfires and protect the home, To satisfy Council requirements to collect rainwater from sheds or garages, To ensure a backup for other water supplies.
Economic Reasons
To save money or qualify for rebates
To store water at an economical cost
To save money on your water bills
In some other areas, Councils have introduced cash-back rebate plans for those who install a rainwater tank
The cost of water is already high and it is set to rise substantially in the near future as Councils and Water Boards move to pass on the true cost of water to the community
To meet new regulations
In some suburbs, new houses are now required to install a rainwater tank of a certain capacity
For health reasons
See the value in pure fresh natural rainwater
Do not want chemicals added to your drinking water
Wish to drink pleasant tasting water
Water supply is salty or hard, has odours or contains heavy metals
Consider rainwater better for the family's health and want to take control of what the family drinks
For environmental reasons
To prevent the impact of stormwater run-off on the local environment
Understand that rainwater is good for the garden
To become as independent as possible, for either philosophic or environmental reasons, or both
By using Rainwater systems to supply water for some, or indeed all of our requirements, it can reduce the dependence on mains water. The water supplies are falling and water restrictions are in place in many communities to reduce our overall water usage and protect our supplies.
There is no better quality of water available naturally than rainwater. Some say there are health benefits to using rainwater which is not treated with chemicals like our mains water is.
Rainwater falls for free - once the system is installed a rain harvesting system, it use less mains water and can reduce the water bills. There exist four rainwater systems. The following pictures show the systems.
Gravity Fed System with Pump
A sloping allotment that allows this type of setup is the ultimate system. The pump only needs to operate when the Header Tank is being filled up. Being gravity fed, there is always ample and constant water pressure.
The suggested "loop" system uses 40mm poly pipe with a tee off with 25mm feeder line into the hot water service (HWS). By positioning the HWS near to the most frequently used taps (kitchen and basin), the draw off before the hot water arrives is minimal and better than having small pipes that result in low delivery rates on low pressure. A two tap, single post mixer is ideal for ideal for a gravity fed system and allows better regulation of flow and temperature.
By changing the Transfer Pump to a pressure pump the gravity feed system becomes a pressure system or gravity feed system at the flick of a switch. The in-feed pipe to the tank must be fitted with an automatic level shut off ball valve. When the pump is turned on the house operates on the pressure system. When the power goes off the house operates as gravity feed system. This system is recommended for fire prone areas, such as this. For a site where it is not possible to have a Header Tank, install a pressure pump.
Dry System
Dry System is systems where the pipe system is designed to run direct from the gutter into the tank. The pipes drain out after rain and do not hold water when the rain stops. "Dry" systems are best because water sitting idle in pipes can become stagnant and provide a potential breeding ground for mosquitoes.
Wet system
Wet System is systems where the pipes from the gutter go down the wall and underground the tank and then up into. Many systems are "wet" because the size of buildings and the placement of tanks away from the buildings mean that there are long runs of pipe underground leading to a riser at the tank. Because the pipes are underground and below the entry point to the tank, even during periods without rainfall water remains in the pipes. "Wet" systems can be converted to HYPERLINK "http://www.rainharvesting.com.au/in-ground_diverter.asp""HYPERLINK "http://www.rainharvesting.com.au/in-ground_diverter.asp"dryHYPERLINK "http://www.rainharvesting.com.au/in-ground_diverter.asp""HYPERLINK "http://www.rainharvesting.com.au/in-ground_diverter.asp" using In-Ground Water Diverters, improving water quality and saving water in the process.
Gutter Storage System
Gutter storage involves directing and storing rainwater in specially constructed large capacity gutters surrounding a house. Gutter storage systems are best suited to new houses, as the cost of the gutters can be offset by savings in building materials.
The system is designed to gravity feed non-potable water for toilet flushing and
Recommendation
The gravity system could be a good solution, because there is a big height different, and on that way it would be able to use the gravity. The water can be transported between the header and the tank. When the water is in the header it will flow to the house system by the gravity, without using any kind energy except the gravity. When the water should to the header, it has to be pump and this use some energy, which isn't good for the environment.
Dry system would be preferred, because it is easy to install, cheap and one the most common. The wet system requires more work under the construction, because it has to be buried. The gutters system is good for new houses, but still more complicated to conduct, because it has to be inside the walls or around the house.
Garden Water
Watering
Water early in the morning or evening as this allows water to penetrate before it evaporates. Watering early in the morning allows plants to utilize water throughout the day. Less frequent, deep soakings train plant roots to grow down into the soil and increase the drought tolerance of plants. Water the roots, not the leaves. Water on the leaves evaporates easily and can lead to scorching. Controlling weeds reduces competition for water with your plants. Ideally, fertilize plants with organic liquid fertilizer or compost. Dry fertilizers take up some water from the soil and can raise salt levels.
Automatic irrigation systems that are poorly designed and inefficient may use more water than hand-held hoses and sprinklers. Automatic systems set to turn on regardless of weather conditions and soil moisture content will waste water. Systems not adjusted to seasonal needs may deliver water too fast, resulting in run-off, or supply more water than plants require.
Install soil moisture sensors. These trigger cutoff switches when it rains and adjust watering duration according to soil moisture levels.
Drip irrigation is the most efficient system as it delivers water to the roots of individual plants and minimizes evaporation and wind drift.
Water-storing crystals can hold hundreds times their weight in water. When mixed with water they form a soft gel and retain water that provides a reservoir of moisture for plant roots during dry periods. There are also products that can be sprayed on to plants' surfaces to reduce sunburn and water loss.
Soil wetting agents allow water to penetrate deeply into soil. Humectants, a moistening agent, attract moisture from air spaces in the soil. These are particularly effective in sandy soils. (Government, 2010)
Rain Gardens
Rain Gardens are landscaping features that may be designed for storm water quality treatment without foregoing aesthetic of ornamental values. Raingardens capture stormwater from hard surfaces and filter it through layers of sandy soil/ organic mulch medium, which subsequently drains to a conventional storm water conveyance pipe. These layers help to slow the rate of stormwater entering our rivers and creeks while also filtering out pollutants, excess nutrients and chemicals that normally build up on these surfaces in urban environments.
Rain Gardens can also provide some detention and/or retardation of storm flows, again providing an aesthetic water/pond feature.
The plants in a raingarden help with the uptake of excess nutrients that would otherwise end up in the rivers and creeks. By capturing stormwater, raingardens are self watering and are therefore easier to maintain and use less potable water than regular gardens.
Up to 60 per cent of household water is used outdoors, much of which is wasted. Using water conservation techniques in the garden will save money, time and effort and be a benefit to the natural environment such as Water Sensitive Urban Design.
Water holding capacity is determined by the texture of the soil. Finer soils have a greater capacity to hold water due to their greater particle surface area. There are three main soil types - sand, loam and clay. Sandy soils drain rapidly, clay soils hold water but make it difficult for many plants to grow. A soil with plenty of organic matter and a mixture of fine and coarse particles that form into small composite particles (called 'peds') is ideal.
By adding organic material to the soil it will improve air space and drainage. A combination of gypsum, sand and composted organic matter will produce the best results in clay soils.
By minimizing paving of outdoor areas as paved areas will increase the heat radiation and the water run-off from the site. It's a good idea to group plants with similar water needs, and divide plants into high, medium and low water-use in the garden
High water-use - Lawns, vegetables, fruit trees, exotic shrubs like azaleas and camellias, flowering herbaceous annuals and many bulbs.
Medium water-use - Hardy vegetables like pumpkins and potatoes, hardy fruit trees and vines like nut trees and grapes, many herbs, some exotic shrubs, most grey or hairy leafed (tomentous) plants, roses and daisies.
Low water-use - Most Australian natives including banksias, grevilleas and eucalypts.
Plant trees to create a natural shade and windbreaks to reduce evaporation. High water-use plants are best located in areas where they are sheltered from drying winds and strong sunlight. Where possible, use alternative water source for high water use plants. A simple approach is to direct rainwater runoff from downpipes towards high water-use areas.
For good survival and growth, chose plants from the nursery that:
• In the case of trees, have self-supporting trunks.
• Are not root bound, i.e. excessive root growth, particularly where the roots have become highly matted around the base and sides of the pot.
• Have healthy green leaves, rather than yellow or blotchy ones that may indicate mineral deficiencies or other problems
Select plants that suit the soil and garden conditions. Local indigenous plants will have evolved to handle local conditions. Many other Australian native plants have evolved to cope with very little water. (Government, 2010)
Below shows a table with extracts of plants and trees that use little water and that may be useful in the family Jones' garden.
These icons show you where to plant and how much to water:
plant in full sun
plant in full sun to part shade
plant in part shade
plant in full shade
low water use
moderate water use
Name
Height
Water &place
Ground covers and grasses up to 50 cm - Australian Plants
Banksia blechnifolia
0.25 - 0.45m high, ground cover, pinkish/red flowers
Baumea acuta- Pale Twig-rush
0.2 - 0.4m high, to 1m wide grass-like herb, forming dense meadows flowers brown in September to November
Lomandra confertifolia &longifolia -Lomandra
0.5m high, 0.7m wide, grass-like foliage, small cream to yellow flowers in August to November
Grasses and small shrubs up to 1 m - Australian Plants
Austrostipa scabra ssp. Falcate -Slender Spear-grass
grass
Juncus gregiflorus -Juncus, Tussock Rush
1m high
Anigozanthos - Kangaroo Paw
1m high, 0.5m wide straplike shrub, various flowers, mainly red, yellow and green
Prostanthera rotundifiolias -Native Mint Bush
0.8m high, 0.8m wide, mauve/purple flowers
Medium shrubs up to 2 m - Australian Plants
Alpinia coerulea 'Variagata - Blue Berry Ginger/ Native Ginger
2m high ginger-like plant, blue fruit
Baloskion tetraphyllum-Tassel Cord-rush
1.7m high, flowers red to brown in September to February
Macrozamia -Zamia palm/ Burrawang/ Cycad
1 - 2m high, 1 - 2m wide
Westringia fruticosa -Coast Rosemary
1.5m high, 1.5m wide, shrub, flowers lilac-mauve to blue-mauve in August to October
Hardenbergia violacea -Happy Wanderer
0.4m high, spreading
Large shrubs and trees - Australian plants
Eucalyptus - Gum Trees
most 10 to 25m high, variety of large trees
Lepidozamia peroffskyana - Cycad
4 to 7 m
Cordyline rubra
2m high
Corymbia ficifolia -Red Flowering Gum
up to 9m high
Wollemia nobilis-Wollemi Pine
up to 10m high, majestic conifer with dark green foliage, bubbly bark
Recommendation
The selection of plants that require minimal water is ideal and should be chosen. Choose plants which already are in the area. By installing an automatic water system, the Jones family wouldn't use unnecessary water in the garden.
Raingardens are self watering and easy to maintain, especially if planted with native, drought tolerant plants. They don't need to be watered, mowed or fertilised. Raingardens also help to clean and slow the rate of stormwater entering the rivers and creeks which in turn protects the animals, plants and fish who rely on healthy waterways for their survival. The quantity of stormwater is also a problem which can lead to erosion of river beds and banks and provide unfavourable conditions for many plant and animal species.
Raingardens help to improve the quality and quantity of stormwater before it enters our waterways. Building a raingarden in the backyard is one way the Jones family can make a real difference to the environment and contribute to healthy waterways.
Reduce Lawn Area
Lawns consume up to 90 per cent of the water and energy used in gardens. They also take the greatest amount of time and money to maintain. Lawns need mowing, weeding, edging and fertilising, and equipment requires fuel and maintenance. Reducing lawn area is the easiest way to save water. Create garden beds, or mulch areas that are used infrequently or where grass grows poorly.
Replace lawn areas with porous paving, pebbles or drought-tolerant ground covers such as prostrate grevilleas, snake vine. (Hibbertia scandens), or myoporum. Seek advice at the local plant nursery. (Government, 2010)
Reduce Water Use on Lawns
Different grass types have different watering needs. Select a turf that needs less water such as couch, Queensland blue couch, buffalo, Nioaka and Nathus Green (Sporobolous virgincus), tall fescues and carpet grass. Many blends and species are region specific.
Do not 'scalp' the lawn. Set the mower to cut 4cm or higher. This encourages a deeper root system and the longer grass blades shade the soil, reducing evaporation.
Only water when the lawn is showing signs of stress. Long, slow soakings that allow water to penetrate to a depth of about 15cm will encourage a deeper, more hardy root system.
A lightly fertilized lawn uses up to 30 per cent less water than an unfertilized lawn of the same grass type. A diluted spray of the liquid drained from the composting worm farm (or purchased from a commercial vermiculture operation) is ideal fertiliser. It returns the waste to the soil and plants. (Government, 2010)
By reducing the lawns and chose high lightly fertilized lawns the Jones family would be able to both save on the water consumption and the water bill.
Slope water
Where practical or where stormwater run-off is more than 0,5 hectare, up-slopewater should be diverted around the site. Stormwater can be diverted with the use of small turf or geotextile-lined drains or by use of diversion banks. Diverted stormwater should be discharged on to stable areas and should not be diverted into neightbouring properties unless written permission is obtained from the landowners. Avoid directing stormwater towards the site's entry/exits points.
Recommendation
CED recommends that the Jones family choose a rainwater garden with as little lawn as possible or with species and plants, trees and shrubs that use a little water as possible. This will make the garden self-sufficient and they don't have to think about watering. Install drains for the slope water, so it wouldn't damage the site and make sure that the water will diverted into diversion banks.
For water supply CED will recommends gravity feed system or a dry system. The dry system is the most normally system in common houses, but this allotment has a big slope and it would be possible to use the gravity for the water supply system.
